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Lists have been compiled and are available at various places on the net, and these lists are compiled by noting serial numbers and their first time seen on the market, or by their sales invoices matched to specific serials, and by word of mouth.. Rolex has not released their production numbers, or their serial numbers either for what ever reason.USA manufactured bracelets differ in their stampings to their European counterparts in that many bracelets have no date and that dated ones are month/year stamped rather than quarter/year. Watch anatomy can be a general topic, but I know that there are plenty of watch aficionados and collectors that are specific about what brands they want to know about, so I am going to talk about Rolex bracelets today.
This bracelet half is manufactured separately from the clasp and the endlink code, and the clasp code may be different, but they should be close. This breaks down into a known build code and as an example: R=Rolex 166=Diver (Sub Date in this case) 1= Rotating Bezel (Engine Turned in early dress watches) 0=Metal type, Stanless 30=Dial, 3-Black, 0-Stick B9325= Bracelet style 93250 Models: Oyster Perpetual : 10, 140, 142 Air-King : 55 & 140 Date : 15 & 150 Datejust : 16, 162 & 1162 Daytona Manual Wind : 62 Daytona Cosmograph : 165 & 1165 Explorer : 142, 10 & 1142 Explorer II : 16 & 165 Sea Dweller : 16 & 166 Submariner : 16, 166 & 168 Submariner (no date) : 55 & 140 GMT Master : 16, 65, 167 GMT Master II : 167 Oysterquartz Datejust : 170 Oysterquartz Day-Date : 190 Day-Date (President) : 65, 18, 180, 182, 183 & 1182 Yachtmaster : 166, 686, 696, 1686 & 1696 Midsize Oyster Perpetual DJ : 68, 682, 782 & 1782 Ladies Oyster Perpetual : 67, 671, 672, 760 & 761 Ladies Date : 65, 69, 691, 692, & 791 Ladies Datejust : 65, 69, 691 & 692, 791 & 1791 Bezel Codes: 0 = Smooth/Domed 1 = Rotating/Engine Turned (early) 2 = Engraved 3 = Fluted 4 = Bark 5 = Pyramie (Not Used) 6 = Turn-O-Graph 7 = Various 8 = Special (Not Currently Used) 9 = Open (Not Currently Used) Metal Type: 0 = Stainless Steel 1 = Yellow gold Placor (Tudor) 22 = Stainless steel and Platinum (Yachtmaster) 3 = Stainless Steel and 18k Yellow gold (Yellow Rolesor) 4 = Stainless Steel and 18k White gold (White Rolesor) 5 = Gold Shell (early models - Rose Gold on newer models) 6 = Platinum 7 = 14k Yellow gold (No Longer Used) 8 = 18k Yellow gold 9 = 18k White gold BIC = Bi-Color 18k Yellow and White gold combo TRIDOR = 18k Yellow, White and Rose gold Dial Codes: first digit: 1x = Silver 2x = Champagne 3x = Black 4x = Steel 5x = White 6x = Blue 7x = Bronze 8x = Pink 9x = Mother of Pearl second digit: x0 = Index (Stick) x1 = Unknown/Unused x2 = Sunbeam (Roman) x3 = Roman x4 = Bi Color Dial (Index) x5 = Jubilee (Roman) x6 = Maxi Arabic x7 = Index (3,6,9 Arabic) x8 = Waves (Arabic) x9 =Sunbeam (Roman) Modern crown markings..
The Rolex bracelets are very distinct and if you are thinking of becoming a collector of this prestigious brand, then it is important that you be able to recognize the different aspects of the models so you can tell the real from the fake, as well as the year the watch you are looking at was produced and the actual worth.
Rolex is one of the most copied watches on the market today.
There were a few years carryover where reference numbers were in both locations.
Serial The Code On The Clasp This database of clasp codes is also an estimate because this information too, is not released by Rolex.
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In the same way that Rolex serial numbers allow you to date the year of your Rolex you can also date the year of your Rolex bracelet.